The 14 year old porter

In life, there are those who come and go, and those who make an indelible (and positive) impression. Most times, those in the latter are role models, or loved ones. Rarely does one encounter someone of the latter whom he’s met once in his life, especially when that someone is only a child.

This past weekend, during a grueling 2-day, 9-hour hike up to Glacier de Chicon (peak: 17,500ft), I met one of the most remarkable, yet unmistakably average, 14 year old boys ever. He was one of the five porters leading the group, all of whom were carrying our meals and water on their backs on a square sheet of cloth held together by a knot wrapped around their necks. While most of us gringos in our hiking boots and padded backpacks were panting for air, eagerly awaiting the next descanso to let our accumulating lactic acid disintegrate, these porters, in their sandals and 30 or so pounds of bulky things unstably hanging off their backs, were frolicking (ok maybe that’s a bit of a stretch) up the hill. And guess who was leading them all? Cristian, the 14 year old boy. Of course, this physical feat alone would not make him great. It’s what I saw in him throughout the course of the two days that prompted me to reflect.

Christian on the very left. (Photo by David Chou)

It’s indubitable that Cristian was going through a painful degree of physical stress, given his pace up the mountain. It may not have been to the extent of most others, but at our few breaks, he laid down his heavy bag and fell to the floor in exhaustion like the rest of us. But you wouldn’t even know he was tired because he was always smiling or cracking a joke. I can imagine what many other 14-year olds would do in such a situation as physically demanding as his, and laughing would not be one of them. He offered the four non-porters in the “fast” group (Busack, Bodner, Chou, Me) some nuts at a few stops, and led our group the whole way on the first day.

I really got a sense of his impressive sense of maturity the next morning. When I say I didn’t sleep the night before, I actually didn’t fall asleep a minute from 8 pm - 5 am, given the less than ideal tenting situation and lack of warmth in the 20 degree wind. It was torturous. I waited outside the tent from 3 am to 5 am, and at the sound of the fire starting up nearby, I joined the porters by the fireside. At my response to their inquiry of how I slept, Cristian offered me mate (tea), bread, and jelly, and encouraged me to come on the 2nd leg of the hike to the glacier, even if I were struggling. And again, even at 5am, when he was clearly cold and tired himself, he was cracking jokes, offering the other porters tea, and seeing if I were feeling better. I wouldn't be lying if I said I ended up going on the 2nd leg to not disappoint my boy.

By noon, I had taken an Advil from Jina and felt much better. I eventually joined Kach, Busack, Bodner and two porters for the return run-down through the woods, led by none other than our 14-year old. When we reached the base of the mountain, I gave all the goodies I had to the two porters whom were with us (some empanadas de carne y pollo, ketchup, and fruits), in an attempt to show our appreciation. Busack, in his generosity, gave his sweatshirt and sweet pocketknife to the other porter and Cristian, respectively, who took them with earnest gratitude. Maybe he saw the same admirable traits, and wanted to reward him. Anyway, looking back, I wish I could’ve given him something more substantial. It’s not everyday you come across a kid who subconsciously makes you reflect on maturity, attitude, and life.

Que un chico!


Posted by Jun John Yoo